The Yogi, Bon, Black Magic & Mustang

 Andu, myself and Jukme, one of my cousins who studied in Bon Monastry in Nothern India for years accompanied me throughout the trip. We arrived lately in the village Called Lubra, situated in Mustang, 3 hours walk from Jumsom, the capital City. I was particularly interested to visit this village as it apparently was only a village in modern age that has managed to preserve Bon culture and religion. Still the villages purely follow Bon Buddhism regardless of the fact that they are widely criticized.

What amazed me was the young people who I met were proud to tell that  they are Bon.
Luckily, Jukme crossed some young people whom he said to have studied together in Bon Monastery. This was however not expected. 

Before we headed to village, we played soccer on muddy ground for 15 minutes. But we didn’t want to waste our time just playing. After winning the game, we headed off to village which took us 10 minutes walk down from our camp. A friend of Jukme led the way to village and welcomed us to his  home for butter tea.  

The settlement of the villages was quite unique. It can be compared with most villages found in Tibet. An old monastery centrally located in the village was the main attraction for most us. We couldn’t wait to see inside  the monastery. The monastery was quite old which didn’t look as fancy as most monasteries in Kathmandu. Nevertheless, it was strong enough to make you feel completely spiritual. The moment I entered inside, it made me think if Tompa Serab was looking at me? 

 The worshiped Over in my own way chanting “OM Mani Pedme Hung”.  But Bon have their own custom which I learned on this day-“ Om Mati Muye Sallhe du”. I don’t know what this Mantra really mean but I suppose this is like the “OM Mani Pedeme Hung” which I learned from my early age as ordinary Buddhist.. I was told that It is very good to recite the mantra Om mani padme hum, but while you are doing it, you should be thinking on its meaning, for the meaning of the six syllables is great and vast... The first, Om [...] symbolizes the practitioner's impure body, speech, and mind; it also symbolizes the pure exalted body, speech, and mind of a Buddha[...] "The path is indicated by the next four syllables. Mani, meaning jewel, symbolizes the factors of method: (the) altruistic intention to become enlightened, compassion, and love.[...]"

"The two syllables, padme, meaning lotus, symbolize wisdom[...]"

"Purity must be achieved by an indivisible unity of method and wisdom, symbolized by the final syllable hum, which indicates indivisibility[...]"

"Thus the six syllables, om mani padme hum, mean that in dependence on the practice of a path which is an indivisible union of method and wisdom, you can transform your impure body, speech, and mind into the pure exalted body, speech, and mind of a Buddha[...]"

Now it was already night, but our camp is up on the hill, which would take us 40 to 50 minutes difficult walk from the village. The path was slippery and narrowed. One single mistake would mean to death, if not sever injury. But our way back to camp was perhaps the best moment which I had from this village regardless of the risk elements involved.

A local guy who accompanied us up to the camp, kept us curious with his a interesting story on "Black Magic Battle between Bon yogi and NgyinMa Yogi. The guy metaphorically shared the story but it was interesting.

 Very long ago, An well respected yogi from Jharsong, presently known Jharkot, (neighbor village of Lubra) and another well respected Yogi from Lubra had conflict on others religious faith. The Yogi from Jharkot was practitioner of Jhokchhen, Tibtan Budhism, who was also a key member Nyingmapa institute in local level. Similarly, the other one from Lubra was symbolic lean age of Bon, Tonpa Serab (Like Buddha, or Christ). Bon is a religion which is believed to be oldest religion practiced in Tibet before even the Buddhism was not introduced. Both Yogis were on the mission to spread religion in respective territory. They were great practitioner and magician. They would control rain and prevent disaster through their worship. But people had great confusion meantime. Who of them was greater practitioner? Who should them choose to follow? This had to be solved. One day, the Yogi challenged each other to prove who is best. Battle began with showing their magic, destroying rocks with shiny thunder from open sky. And destructive rain which caused flood. It was just exhibitions of their power but no harm had done to ordinary yet. The battle continued for decades. Finally, yogi from Jharkot lost the battle of black magic. And ended up appealing his follower to hide his dead corps in the origin of river which follow from north of Lubra. It is said the yogi wanted his follower to do this because he wanted to take revenge.Secrete never revealed. But the people believe that the spirit of the Yogi is still roaming. he must have performed some black magic while dying.

The river which was silent before has suddenly started to cause destruction to the people of Lubra since the death of Yogi.  Many have been drowned. Fields destroyed. What happened afterwards is unclear.
No engineer has ever estimated perfect bridge to cross this river safely so far. It is said that the river changes its way every year which cases disaster. The river is comparatively small but it is unpredictable. It is all happening because the Yogi’s spiritual power. People of this village might have developed stronger faith once the Bon Yogi won the battle. Said Lukme’ friend.